Malla Linen square - Finished!

Malla is the Spanish form of Lacis or Filet lace. I have been working on five squares of lacis, one large and four small squares. This is not a recreation of an extant piece of work from the 16th century, but it is a representation of Malla pieces seen in Catalogo de Encajes by Maria Gonzales Mena (1977). In order to finish the linen table square I need to finish the linen itself with some pulled work or drawnwork. I was playing with reticella, but it was not working like I had hope. I will try again next time I have some

Part 1 -This cloth started with La Luna. One panel out of 48 large panels in a colcha (bedcover). The net is a commercial made net, so it is a 7 squares per inch as opposed to 10 squares in the original piece.

In order to recreate the whole bed cover would take more time than I have left in this lifetime :-) Even Professor Mena tells us that based on evidence provided in the colcha, the person who started the malla, was not the one who finished it. La Luna is an example of this. Most of the squares in the colcha are using both linen stitch and darning stitch variations to create the patterns. Only 5-6 of the patterns are simply linen stitch. La Luna is one of these patterns. The motifs that I will be using for the small squares are all but one from the large squares that are in the original piece. Mena (1977) only has one detail square of the little squares that corner the large squares and that is the peacock. I have gone ahead and made an easy pattern with this one for beginners.

Inspiration for La Luna

Work in Progress, using highlighter to show where I have been on the pattern.

La Luna finished. Now, what do I do with it? I know, let's make a table cloth.

Photo of the left corner of this mid to late 16th century Colcha. Note the small squares connecting the corners. It is almost impossible to pattern from what pictures we have. However, look at the motifs in the large panels: bat, dog, owl.

My hand drawn pattern inspired by the original colcha. I have added some design elements that I think work, with the piece I am making. From this I chose four patterns.

Work in progress - The Owl sits atop a flower. Yes, very fanciful.

Finished squares; peacock with initials for Agnes and Abrahe and the owl.

Finished bat. I had a rough time with the left side wings, but figured out what I did wrong on the right side. So, I went back, tore it all out and restitched that whole section. This was really a puzzle piece and not to be taken lightly. Looks like an easy beginner piece, but it is rather tricky.

Bunny with tree. This is a good one to play with for a beginner. It looks more complicated than it is.

Part 2 (8-23-2020) - So, the malla is done. Time to prepare the cloth. This is going to be a long process. Probably longer than if I had made the net for the five pieces of malla. Two weeks ago, I started by pulling threads for a hemming stitch on one side (see link below for hemstitch ideas, most are ones seen in period). The width of the fabric will be stitched with this "Turkish" hemstitch and then after more thread pulling, I will use a macrame technique to finish the ends. The length, I am hoping to just make a small needle lace edging or I may do some small insertion lace, haven't thought that far, yet.

(10/16/2022) Update: I have one side completely finished and have started the second side. The first row of the pulled work is done and have started to work on the return, approx. 5-7 inches in, and, because I get bored easily, I have started the macramé on that side. I have to be careful to not pull too many threads for the macramé because the tension needed for the pulled work needs whole cloth where I am working.

(11/05/2023) Update: So, yeah, it has taken a year [and a bout of COVID) to get the other side of the cloth finished. Not planning a four sided macramé fringe, just two sides. This week, I pinned and basted the five panels to the cloth and started a buttonhole stitch with a 80/2 linen to attach the lacis panels. On the Arachne's Web Facebook page, some 16th century handkerchiefs with reticella panels. I liked the pattern of the main lace pieces better than what I was originally planning. The smaller lacis panels are 2 horizontal and 2 vertical. So centering them on each side of Luna just is aesthetically more pleasing. Of course, I will need to research some white work or needlelace to place in the corners to maintain the balance of the table cloth. Started this piece in 2020 or there about. Hope I can finish before or in 2024.

The To do list

Lacis pieces -
- Luna con Scorpios - done
- Four corner pieces - done
Embroidery -
- currently working on the pulled work embroidery. May add a second layer or go for a border. done, no border - DONE
- Trying to determine what I want to do with the upper edges. Not seeing a lot of white on white embroidery in Spain. Table clothes were embroidered, we see several extant table clothes in Catalogo de bordados (Mena, 1977) and as you can see in the picture to the left (Marriage of Cana by the Master of the Catholic Kings). done
Macramé - Trying to decide if how complicated I want to make the edging. There are several examples of macramé within Period. (started working on a simple knotting for the fringe. Will work on a more elaborate macramé and passementries later... DONE - Went simple. Next time go for double the size of the tassles.
Finishing - apply Lacis to table cloth. Then carefully cut away the linen behind the lacis.

Beginning of the first half of the one side. Pulled 5 - 6 weft threads and began the first set of stitches.

Almost to the end. Other side of the linen is already pulled. When finished on this side of the pulled threads, I will go back on the opposite side linking every other set of warp thread bundles.

Hoop is used for ease in stitching. It helps me to maintain consistency. The hoop is put on and taken after each stitch session, so as not to cause permanent creases in the linen. In period, if they did use a frame, it would have been a large slate frame with rollers for large pieces of work.

I got a new book for Xmas!

German Modelbucher 1524 - 1556

I am starting to plan some white work for the border.

Starting to go the other way.

Second line of Gigliuccio /Peahole Hem Stitch.

Instructions found at https://pysankigirl.wixsite.com/graceslace/instruction

Working on the fringe after the one side was finished.

Working on that other side. In a bit of a lull due to living in a hotel without my comfy chair. You know how it is.

A layout to keep me going.

Did a quick layout, so that I could get an idea of what I am going for. I have photos of Italian and Spanish tablecloths from the period to set up my five panels. Update: notice on this layout the small panels are on the corners of Luna.

Attaching Luna and her peeps to the cloth (11/5/2023 update)

Washed the cloth and ironed it with lots of starch. This will help with cleaning, if I make a habit of starching the linens after use.

Below is Luna. She has been basted to the cloth. Next to her you see my little horizontal bat. So cute is that bat. He is pinned and will also be basted to the cloth as well as the other small panels

I started with one of vertical pieces. The little owl with the tiny buttonhole stiches. A little lumpy over the knots, but it coming in fairly nicely. Working to try to keep the panel squared to the table cloth. Using a nice tight hoop to build from that. Now, many of the cloths were pieced using insertion laces, either bobbin or needlelace, but I like to applique the panels because I will probably not finish if I don't find some shortcuts. Applique is a period appropriate option, if not completely accurate to the usage in this case. Remember, the person who originally worked the Colcha that this piece is based on DIED before her project was done and relied on others to finish the piece (Mena, 1977). Given my age I want to finish this while I am still able. ;-)

Update July 2024 - Working full time and writing novels makes it hard to focus on this one project. Working on the third small panel have done a cursory trim on the other two finished panels to give it an idea of what it will look like when finished.

Almost done!

December 12, 2024 - The four small panels have been finished with a buttonhole stitch and clipping to the edge. Luna is in the center and has 1/2 of the buttonhole done. When finished with the stitching, I will carefully trim off the fabric behind the lacis panel, then it will essentially be done. At this time, I will do a hot water cleaning with Orvus and finish with a good starched pressing.

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